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In India, "priya" is a Hindi word meaning "beloved." Krishna Lakireddy and his wife, Rama, hope their 11-month old Priya Indian Cuisine in east Redding will live up to its name.

Early signs are good, judging from Priya's food, fans and positive word-of-mouth.

The all-you-can-eat luncheon buffet is popular for its variety and value ($7.95 on weekdays, $9.95 on weekends).

The Lakireddys and main chef Lakshmi Seelam, a cousin, all hail from Andhra Pradesh, the largest state in southern India, a region known for its rice-based cuisine and delicious food.

Don't forget to try the popular masala dosa, a crepe-like affair stuffed with potato curry. Or, better yet, order the Priya South Indian Combo ($8.95) — a masala dosa, one idli (a steamed rice cake with lentil soup), one vada (a donut-like concoction made of lentils) and sambar (a lentil vegetable soup for seasoning).

Good news for non-meat eaters. Priya's vegetarian menu includes a whole page of entrees. Popular items include: aloo saag (potatoes and creamy spinach), mushroom mutter (mushrooms and green peas with onion sauce), eggplant curry, okra masala and navaratan kurma (chopped vegetables cooked in a gravy sauce with dried fruit and cheese).

North Indian specialties include vegetable, chicken, lamb and shrimp biryani rice dishes.

Serious meat eaters should try the tandoori chicken, lamb kebab, and shrimp (prepared in a traditional clay oven).

Fans of curry can chose from chicken, lamb, fish and shrimp curries. Indian breads at Priya run the gamut from paratha (a tandoori baked wheat bread) to garlic or onion naan, to papadum (a fried bread made with lentil flour).

Other popular items: the butter chicken, fish masala and chicken tikka masala (cooked in a spicy cream sauce).

India, I discovered during my travels, is a vast country with an equally vast and flavorful cuisine. One visit — to the country or to a good Indian restaurant like Priya — is hardly enough.

For a beverage, try one of several Indian beers, a refreshing mango lassi (a yogurt drink) or a frothy cup of Madras coffee (as good or better than any coffee drink at Starbucks).

Indian sweets can be a bit of an acquired taste. For dessert, try the mango custard or rice pudding.

As you head out the door, grab a small handful of fennel seeds to chew, a traditional digestive and breath mint.

The Lakireddys, who lived in Berkeley before moving to Redding, hope to have a long relationship with the north state. They have two sons (one at Alta Mesa, one at U-Prep). "We hope we'll do fine here," said Rama Lakireddy. "We hope to retire here." To which I say, "Namaste" (Welcome).

Airpark Café poised for takeoff

Maritime Seafood & Grill head waiter Ezra Herback and cook Cindy Norris are moonlighting — they recently reopened the Airpark Café at Benton Airpark (next to Dog Park).

Open for breakfast and lunch 7 days a week. Standards like flaky French toast, build-your-own omelets and country fried steak with healthy alternatives like a grilled veggie sandwich and blackened salmon. Great mountain view, too. Phone: 241-5497.

Marc Beauchamp is a freelance writer from Redding.